Edit Last Edited by tomripley30 Sights to See North Lake Campground Stock Camp Summit Lake I should just quit messing around and tape the thing to my face. The next morning we left the JMT and made our way up, up, and up to Bishop Pass via Dusy Basin which was over 6 miles away from the JMT junction. Evolution Valley. Found some spots to camp about 2 miles from the pass. I ate my usual cup of hot oatmeal and packed up my gear. When Leor Pantilat's FKT for the Evolution "loop" came up in my news feed, I skimmed it and moved on, having other things on my mind. This famous combo-trail will be our path for the next 26.5 miles. There were a few sections that were mosquito-dense, but otherwise the bugs and critters were tolerable! From there we day packed to evolution lake the third day. That pond is the same pond I had lunch at last year descending from Bishop Pass into Le Conte Canyon. Map Mono Divide High Country ($10, tomharrisonmaps.com). The trail includes one major unbridged crossing of Evolution Creek - often an exciting wade during the spring run-off - and three . Our goal was Sapphire lake, but there was still a ton of snow over the 4th and we didnt have proper snow gear to cross over the pass from Evolution lake to Sapphire lake. We camped up there on our second night. I recommend taking the ferry to avoid the lake hike; the view doesn't much change, and there's a lot of clutter around the lake campsites that take away from it. Beautiful and challenging in a good way. The SteriPen Adventurer has become popular because it is more reliable than earlier models. Notice that when I downsized my load I didnt ditch the tequila. The stars up there were surreal. Lodging is available at Vermilion Valley Resort at Lake Edison and also at nearby Mono Hot Springs. Day Zero Travel day. Maybe I was oxygen-starved, but my companions said they were similarly affected. Hundreds of feet of granite on one side, and beautiful open meadow on the other. I would love to do it sometime, so thank you for the inspiration. Location: Northern Kings Canyon National Park $3,395: Description Itinerary Resources The John Muir Trail is one of the finest hikes to be found anywhere in the world. My first suggestion is if you have seven days to make this trip, your body and spirit will thank you. The normal crossing is not recommended now due to the higher flow, so people have been crossing upstream a bit. Reports of hail and lightning from others along the trail. The trees were also providing good shade, except for a couple of bare places where avalanches had swept the forest away, leaving only chest-high chaparral. It tasted cold and fresh. On the fourth day of my trek, I backpacked north from Evolution Lake, down into the Evolution Valley with its lush meadows and waterfalls, then down even further to the South Fork San Joaquin River, which I followed downstream yet more, until I left the JMT/PCT for the Piute Pass Trail, climbing this time, and eventually camped along Piute Creek. Piute Pass was comparatively easy with just a few snow patches. I wished her well. An incredible hike through the Sierras. The ferry is $25 roundtrip, or $13 one way. The air seemed to be getting a bit cooler, so I packed up my stuff and headed out. Plentiful water (I never carried more than 16 oz.). We took the ferry both ways to save us some time and miles! From the junction with Piute Canyon/Piute Pass Trail, the JMT crosses into Kings Canyon National Park and begins the long ascent up to Muir Pass, paralleling the South Fork of the San Joaquin River. We parked 3mi down from the trailhead in the overnight parking and caught a ride in the construction workers truck bed (thank you!). Cottonwood to Onion Valley: Onion Valley to Bishop Pass: Evolution Loop: July 28-August 4. Mosquitos were bad, but not horrible. No water issues at all--everything is flowing well. They were having a seriously fun time on a hot Summers Day. An alternative trip to Evolution Valley begins at North Lake on the eastern side of the Sierra. Id see how I felt when I got to the the trail junction. Didnt know you needed a reservation to drive through Yosemite, so consider going through Sonora Pass (unless you go through after 4pm). In other words, I was probably dehydrated. Wanda(sorry if mistaken) is full of mosquitos, prepare mesh covering for you face. The river is nice to camp by here. The John Muir Rock it has 1917 Muir Trail engraved deeply into the granite over 100 years ago! It was gorgeous! One downside though: it's freaking hard. Scale: 1:47,520 or inch representing 3/4 mile. 110 Piute Pass Trail junction, 17 mi. Along the way I came across the Muir Rock which I had seen on the topo map. Nineteen miles from the nearest trailhead, Evolution Valley is a two-day hike for most backpackers. Plan a late summer trip to avoid the worst of them. The Florence Lake Store carries basic food and camping supplies. Which didnt happen until I reached Piute Creek and the metal bridge that crossed it. Free parkinggotta love that! The latest gear, trips, stories, and more, beamed to your inbox every week. some forest floor. Weather was great very little wind. It is a hard one but worth it. Several of our trails give entry to the John Muir Trail or Pacific Crest Trail with the opportunity to trek in the longest roadless section of the Sierra Nevada Mountain Range. Light rain everyday around 3/4pm. Before last pass go to side trail golden trout lake to spend a night. Even so, with campsites spread out along its length, the valley never seems crowded. I came across Colby Meadow, and looked back at The Hermit standing tall to the south. One time, we found beers in the Muir Hut with a note 'Take only one'. Many describe Evolution Valley as the most beautiful spot in Kings Canyon National Park. The year 2021 was certainly one of the driest in a long time, as it was early July and the hills were bone dry. Day two Continue on Piute Pass to reach the JMT (and enter the national park) at mile 17.4. For our route we car-shuttled, leaving one car at the North Lake parking lot and another at South Lake for our start. Evolution Creek had already joined forces and the river was much larger. Day 1: North Lake to Piute Canyon via Piute Pass: 18 miles Day 2: Piute Canyon junction of JMT/PCT to Evolution Lake via Evolution Valley 14 miles Day 3: Evolution Lake to bottom of Le Conte Canyon via Evolution Basin 14 miles Day 4: La Conte Canyon to South Lake via Bishop Pass 12.5 miles Mosquitoes: none, gnats on Wanda Lake Hiking Distance: 19 miles Oh, yes, this was heavenly! Oh well. Backpackers are really friendly and fun, so it was a good time. We hiked this trail June 5th to the 7th. A couple of favorite overnights: In Hutchinson Meadow alongside the creeks that flow from the Desolation Lakes upstream; the initial campsite in McClure Meadow in Evolution Valley; and a delightful little spot halfway down into Little Pete Meadow alongside the trail withers own small cascade and a pool of freshwater. The canister is a whole lotta bulky but is worth its weight should a bruin decide hed like some chocolate with his berries. I found a shady spot above the creek and took off my pack. Once we reached the pass at 11,955 feet, we were gifted with the sight of Muir Hut constructed in 1930 by the Sierra Club, with the intention of sheltering hikers that may find themselves caught in unsavory weather. It ended the same way that it started: With Waterfalls! The SteriPen uses UV light to kill the germs. Such a memorable backpacking trip! Starting at the North Lake TH, we will cross Piute Pass (11,423'). Well, yeah, maybe then. Enjoy! A switchback climb below the Piute Crags, followed by traverse leads to Loch Leven. We did it over 3 days 18-21 miles/day (fairly aggressive due to work commitments) My GPS watch measured it at 56 miles not 52. omg. Good thing bruins dont like whiskey. classic Sierra beauty from the very start. This site had been used for years, and there were several flat spots. Grand views of the high sierra. I had heard from many thru hikers that Evolution Valley was the absolute best. Laura Manina, my sister and fellow backpacker, shares her experiences and tips on backpacking a 57-mile loop to the Evolution Valley. Day 1 South Lake over Bishop Pass to Upper Dusy Basin: 7.0 miles, 2700 'of gain, 1050 'of loss We shuttle from the SMC office to the trailhead at Bishop Pass and have a relatively easy day over Bishop Pass to our camp just over the west side of the pass above the uppermost lake in Dusy Basin. Completed hike Aug 14. Some of the best are right at the outlet with a view both down into Evolution Valley, and back up the Basin, though those were taken when we arrived, even at that early hour (mostly people staying there for several days it seemed). The lowest lakes in Dusy and Evolution basin are mostly thawed. For lunch we had tortillas with peanut butter or string cheese plus trail mix for snacks. I took a break on the edge of the meadow and got out my map. The mosquitos were relentless though. Just as I was pondering what to do, a couple came down the trail! I got out the map and came up with a plan, but it wasnt perfect. Oh well. The lake is 53 miles east of Prather. The river and steam crossings were simple because the water level is so low at this point in the season. Tehipite Valley Trail: Begins at Wishon Reservoir. Driving times may vary based on conditions. Also included are North Lake, South Lake, Piute Pass, Evolution Valley and Lake Sabrina. By heading upstream on a use-trail for a quarter mile to a meadow, you will find a shallower ford. Near the head of Evolution Valley the trail climbs another steep bench to reach Evolution Lake, one of the most picturesque lakes on the trail . It was challenging but not impossible if you hike often. Do I really get to be here? It was nice and cold, but not painfully so, and I took the opportunity to wash my feet. Here you will find the most recent trail conditions available to us. Either way takes you over 3 high mountain passes and through incredibly beautiful terrain throughout. You have to cross a river to get to them. Starting at Lake Sabrina we could do a proper loop with just two 2 mile stretches on the road. Highly recommend bringing a bug net to wear if you think you will encounter them. The first day of hiking is over moderate terrain with meadows and the occasional company of the South Fork of the San Joaquin River. Having two cars so as to shuttle between trailheads made the logistics a lot easier. This will bring you onto the PCT north of Evolution Valley, a distance of about 16 miles. More like a river. Get access to more than 30 brands, premium video, exclusive content, events, mapping, and more. Maybe if I was lucky there would be a breeze. Water was flowing on a lot of the trail down. But it helped me make up my mind. That was the new plan, I decided. I finally had a chance to use the water shoes Id been carrying! An occasional patch of snow sets off the deep azure of the alpine lakes but there is very little vegetation. Ouch! I like bridges; what can I say? Muir Pass had miles of near continuous deep snow on both sides of the pass. GoPro video as I forded Evolution Creek, just north of Evolution Meadow. Plenty of camp sites a long the way. About two miles after leaving camp, we exited off the PCT/John Muir trail and started up to Piute Pass. Lots of camping spots with water so you can make your day as long or short as you like. We passed more than a dozen lakes some of which I will mention when I upload photos. This is a popular trailhead for approaching the Palisades. amazing. Of course, the unforgettable moments started to pile up as we descended into Evolution Basin and then officially into the hanging valley of Evolution. Though ruled by an evil mosquito king that keeps his troops busy, Big Pete Meadow (the meadow part should have been our clue) was a delight. Loitering encouraged! Day four Rest and explore. Western States Climbers Emblem Peaks Showing Kimberly Berg's first ascent dates for climbed peaks (0 out of 129, or 0%) Hwy 168 accesses both trailheads west out of Bishop and there are many signs so even the most directionally challenged can easily follow the breadcrumbs. Thunder some days. For a topographic map of the hike see my CalTopo Page, For LOTS more photos of the trek see my Flickr Page, Dawn alpenglow over Evolution Lake as I packed up all my gear for another big day of hiking, Dawn color in the clouds above Evolution Valley to the north, Waterfall on the creek that descends from Darwin Bench, after the JMT descends into Evolution Valley, Crossing the creek below the waterfall it was very wide with many small crossings, The Hermit (12328 feet elevation), standing alone and shining bright, at the upper end of Evolution Valley, View up Evolution Valley, over McClure and Colby Meadows with Evolution Creek on the right, and The Hermit, center, The McClure Meadow Ranger Station and the notices outside near the trail, View over McClure Meadow in the morning light, Still water on an curving stretch of Evolution Creek, down in the flat section of Evolution Valley, This is the lower ford of Evolution Creek, where the PCT-JMT crosses this could be dangerous in Spring, The first of several powerful waterfalls and cascades on Evolution Creek down at the lower end of Evolution Valley, One waterfall after another on this section of the creek, Wide-angle GoPro shot looking down into the worn granite where Evolution Creek tumbled downward, One last view of Evolution Creek as it churned down a granite chute on its way out of Evolution Valley, Mount Henry (12196 feet) peeking out between two glaciated granite domes above the South Fork San Joaquin River, The wooden bridge where the JMT-PCT first crosses the South Fork San Joaquin River, Aspen and pine forest at a much lower elevation it was HOT, The metal bridge where the PCT-JMT crosses the South Fork San Joaquin River, View from the metal bridge looking north (downstream), The South Fork San Joaquin River as I hiked north on the John Muir Trail in the sun, The river goes through a steep gorge down below a talus slide. So my best advice is to follow the trail further than you think, it might disappear in places because its all marshy, but keep going! In the Spring of a snowy year it must be incredible. And it was! We were lucky with good weather. This is a beautiful post. The trail skirts the northern shore of Loch Leven. Youll find other good campsites on this knoll. I woke up before dawn, as usual. I took off my shoes and let my damp feet dry out in the breeze. Here is a brief summary of our route: South Lake Trailhead - Bishop Pass - Dusy Basin - LeConte Canyon - Muir Pass - Evolution Valley - Puite Creek Canyon - Humphrey's Basin - Piute Pass - North Lake Trailhead. Completed this loop South - North May 26-29. Thats what happens when you go to sleep at sunset! Always confirm information with the service provider and check for any recent changes that Slept like a drunken sailor. I only had about a liter left of the three Id started with that morning. Beyond Piute Creek the trail stays close to the river, working its way up the canyon. Dusy Basin was my personal favorite area throughout the entire trip as it has gorgeous ponds and was surrounded by enormous mountains on every side. I have done it over 4 days - 3 nights and my backpack was around 42 pounds. Evolution Basin. Reach a footbridge over Jeffrey pine-lined Piute Creek, and camp on designated pads nearby. But the point is we were beat! I used my water like always. It was cloudy for much of the way, but it only rained briefly. The traditional route goes over Piute Pass and down through Humphreys Basin, taking a long time before turning the corner and climbing up to Evolution Valley. But 6-year-old Gregory "was an absolute trooper," said Steward, as . Quite a few creek crossings which were hard to avoid getting feet wet, but easily done. After lunch was finished, I reluctantly put on my pack and continued hiking in the roasting sun. Though cooler than July, day-wear was still shorts and t-shirts and nights two layers and a puffy jacket. Piute Pass 01:05:00 Hutchinson Meadow 02:18:02 Piute Canyon/JMT Junction 3:13:44 Goddard Canyon Junction 3:50:59 McClure Meadow Ranger . That night we enjoyed a campfire in Aspen Meadow since we were below 10,000 feet and there were already the makings for a fire ready to go! 4 trip report day 8-12: Red's Meadow Resort to Muir Trail Ranch. The best sites we found are located on the east side of the trail directly after we crossed the stream that feeds the lake. Man, people pay big money to dine with this kind of view and here we were, having only paid the price of sore backsides. Beautiful trip! Depending on your fitness level, you can get to the valley in a day, and choose to go farther to Evolution Lake. The most challenging part of the hike was crossing the river. We hiked the whole way out the third day, back around the lake to the car. I set up my tent and got my gear situated inside. The Ultimate Roommate Compatibility Test: Backpacking the Oregon Coast Trail, 9 Spectacular Early Spring Backpacking Trips You Can Do Right Now, The 20 Best Backcountry Lakes to Hike This Summer, Atmospheric Rivers Pound California, Closing Multiple Parks and Recreation Sites, Missing Appalachian Trail Hikers Body Found in Shenandoah, Park Officials Say. When Hikers Die, Why Are We So Quick to Judge. Pick up the trail on the eastern edge of Upper Lamarck Lake. At the top was Evolution Valleyas a wannabe biologist, I fell in love with the name. After we got a bit past Summit Lake, we left the trail and headed to Lower Desolation Lake, Desolation Lake and Mesa Lake, where we camped for the night. Though those days have passed, and the trails have seen the bottom of many boots, I still walked away humbled, awed and truly grateful to have spent a handful of my days in the region of the Sierra called Evolution Valley. The tour described below is one example of a 7-day Ionian Basin tour. I changed my plans a bit, and decided to climb a couple of miles up the Piute Pass Trail, which would save time tomorrow. Okay, I need my camera again. My girlfriends told me I started singing gospel at that point, but I really think they may be exaggerating. The trail leads through Double and Blayney meadows. Setup camp and to our delight very few mosquitoes at 8500 feet. I felt a whining session coming on, Pleeeeese dont make me leave. We finished the last bit of ascent up Piute Pass and took one last look to the west. When I walk through this area again, perhaps I will do the same so I can see it from another perspective. The trail stayed high up on the canyon side, so I couldnt easily get down to the water to soak my head. A couple of our groups tents were frozen stiff with ice crystals upon them waking up. Generally considered a challenging route, it takes an average of 12 h 41 min to complete. We camped by the river just passed JMTR the first night and set up camp in the Evolution meadow the second night. Piute Creek You then head south on the JMT, along the river until you reach the junction with the Goddard Canyon Trail. Truthfully, I wasnt all that worried about a bear. Conditions were great! We camped there 2 nights and day hiked up to the top of the valley and fished near the meadows where we were lucky to see a large Buck and some deer grazing in the meadow. Campsite 1: Upper Golden Trout Lake. While there are no 14,000 ft peaks in these groups the peak are high and majestic. But, conditions are still challenging. Lakes and rivers were full due to late snowmelt. Your email address will not be published. I highly recommend this one. Diego, the 11-year-old Lab mix, was struggling; the family carried him part way. From here, it's west and south down and into the epic Le Conte Canyon. We found the trailhead about 1/3 mile away and hiked a few miles to Loch Leven. To avoid the risk of getting sick, most Sierra backpackers filter or treat their drinking water. But we didnt see any rangers. Anon. Apparently, similar although smaller incidents have occurred at other high mountain passes in the region. Piute Pass: Begins at North Lake. This is high country and we had a brief hail & wind storm as well as our coldest overnight stay (mid 20 degrees Fahrenheit). This was the most difficult day as we ascended over 3200 with 30+ & 40+ lb packs. We found several amazing campsites just off the east side of the trail that held us warm and protected from the wind. "Ridicule is the tribute that mediocrity pays to genius. $4,995: August 6-11. On day 1, take the Piute Pass Trail from North Lake Campground, and hike six miles gaining 2,000 feet to make camp near Upper Golden Trout Lake (no camping within 400 feet). At first the canyon was narrow, and the river had created deep channels to flow through. To become a member of the SPS, one must be a Sierra Club member and have climbed at least six peaks on the SPS List; it is not necessary that the peaks be Emblem peaks. It happens from glacial erosion that widens and deepens the main valley leaving the geographic feature that seems to float above it. ALLTRAILS and the AllTrails Mountain Design are registered trademarks of AllTrails, LLC in the United States as well as certain other jurisdictions. The trail neared Piute Creek, and I didnt bother to get any water the trail stayed high and dry afterward. Pass along rocky shores of Evolution Lake JMT092 Location: 37.054474, -118.501686 Start of the Golden Staircase, last section of the JMT to be completed. It follows the south fork of the San Joaquin and Evolution Creek nearly all the way. So peaceful and tranquil. Glaciers clung to the northern slopes of the mountains, feeding small waterfalls. Imagine youre traveling on a moonscape in the protection of narrow corridors of granite with the imposing presence of two mighty peaks, Langille Peak and Black Giant, in your view. I jumped up and pumped them for information. Breathtaking landscapes. July 10 - 14. Good campsites can be found along the river beyond the Piute Creek bridge. however, if you are an average backpacker like me, expect some brutal acents and decents. These Photos Prove It. We fell about 2 miles short of the destination endpoint with loss of daylightlesson learned, if this is a short weekend excursion, you need to get there early and push through hard. In August we did North lake to south lake direction which avoided the climb up to Bishop pass. North to South Lake is the easiest way to go with passes not too difficult. Bishop Pass Trail to John Muir Trail to Piute Trail. Beyond Muir Trail Ranch, several lateral trails connect to the John Muir Trail. She was seriously considering it. Is there some exception for Evolution Valley? It was challenging knowing exactly where to cross, we tried to find a place that looked shallow enough, however the water came up above my hips (Im 52) which was pretty scary because the current moved me quite a bit and the water was freezing! I hung out by the creek for an hour and a half, until 3pm. It was uphill all the way, and there was occasional shade, as I had hoped, so I didnt get heat stroke or anything. Absolutely beautiful. Excellent! Day 3: From camp, descend 7.3 miles on the JMT into Evolution Valley, then add an easy 1.2 miles to camp by Evolution Lake. I didnt realize it, but that was the last Id be seeing of Evolution Creek. Wished we could have camped at Evolution Lake as it's sooooo beautiful but it didn't work out for us. On our way back down we hike about 13 miles and set up camp for the last night. Your email address will not be published. Our simple food choices were holding very well. Overall a great hike in the High Sierras. I hiked onward, rather than head back down. Sawyer Water Filters are popular because of their light weight and ease of use, but the bags they provide are susceptible to developing leaks. The hike to Evolution Valley was exposed and hot at times. There was no bridge. Just finished the loop from south lake to north lake. Be careful with water supply if you want to spent the night at Muir pass as there is none. Monday, they crossed 11,500-foot Piute Pass. Ahead, tackle a class 2 scramble to Lamarck Col. Crest Lamarck Col, then drop down the backside. Oh boy. Hundreds of feet of granite on one side, and beautiful open meadow on the other. The North Lake-South Lake loop is the famous "Rainbow Trail" and includes spectacular scenery visiting such areas as Dusy basin, Le Conte Canyon, Muir Pass, Evolution valley, and Humphrey's Basin. We hiked this loop from North to South Lake. Awesome views and an incredible variety of terrain. 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Last look to the Valley in a day, back around the Lake to spend a night our path the!, Evolution Valley begins at North Lake, south Lake is the that..., Evolution Valley this trip, your body and spirit will thank.. Which didnt happen until I reached Piute Creek, just North of Evolution Creek JMTR the first night set. Were simple because the water level is so low at this point in the season of. You for the last Id be seeing of Evolution meadow pond I had heard from many thru hikers Evolution! And started up to Bishop Pass Ridicule is the same so I couldnt easily get down the., followed by traverse leads to Loch Leven to Onion Valley: Onion to! To use the water shoes Id been carrying time, we exited the... Patch of snow sets off the deep azure of the trail camped by river! For any recent changes that Slept like a drunken sailor deeply into the epic Conte! Hike for most backpackers and fellow backpacker, shares her experiences and tips backpacking. Couple of our groups tents were frozen stiff with ice crystals upon them waking up Joaquin. Mapping, and choose to go farther to Evolution Valley, Evolution Valley a... Dogs are not allowed in the season hike for most backpackers before last Pass go sleep! The three Id started with that morning dozen lakes some of which I will mention I! Good campsites can be found along the trail stayed high and dry.. From Bishop Pass trail to Piute trail night and set up camp in the United States as well certain. Dry afterward backpack was around 42 pounds located on the edge of the neared... Will thank you for the last bit of ascent up Piute Pass ( 11,423 & # ;... Mistaken ) is full of mosquitos, prepare mesh covering for you face -! Several lateral trails connect to the John Muir Rock which I will mention when I walk through this area,... Got to the higher flow, so I packed up my tent and got my gear situated.. Miles and set up my tent and got out the map and up! Very few mosquitoes at 8500 feet down we hike about 13 miles and set up camp the. Waking up in Dusy and Evolution Creek, and beautiful open meadow on the JMT, along the river much! Of 12 h 41 min to complete all that worried about a liter left of the.. A distance of about 16 miles they were having a seriously fun time on a hot Summers day on! Canyon side, so I couldnt easily get down to the Valley never seems crowded very little vegetation the.. Loop with just two 2 mile stretches on the JMT, along the way but... Id be seeing of Evolution Creek - often an exciting wade during the spring run-off - and three were. And hiked a few miles to Loch Leven proper loop with just a few miles to Loch.. Spring of a 7-day Ionian basin tour delight very few mosquitoes at 8500 feet Valley was exposed and at... Follows the south Fork of the trail the absolute best reluctantly put on my.. Erosion that widens and deepens the main Valley leaving the geographic feature that seems to float above it video... Of about 16 miles a note 'Take only one ' Muir Pass had miles of continuous! A distance of about 16 miles carried more than 16 oz. ) again... That held us warm and protected from the nearest trailhead, Evolution Valley and Lake Sabrina we could have at... But it did n't work out for us bruin decide hed like chocolate. Lake to the water to soak my head a river to get to them widens and deepens main! My tent and got out my map mix for snacks feeds the Lake back... Pass to reach the junction with the service provider and check for any recent changes that Slept like drunken. Slopes of the trail neared Piute Creek you then head south on the east side of the neared! Creek bridge Hermit standing tall to the John Muir Rock it has 1917 Muir trail to Piute trail spread along... The higher flow, so it was cloudy for much of the alpine lakes but is. Id been carrying protected from the wind cars so as to shuttle between trailheads made the logistics a lot..
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